3. Spinning Techniques

Since World War II, no method of casting has gained such momentum as that of spinning. The beginning angler will ask: What is spinning? Why did it increase so rapidly in popularity? Can large fish be caught with spinning tackle? This chapter will attempt to answer these questions.

As used in this book, the term spinning means casting with a stationary spool reel. Instead of being pulled from a revolving spool, the line spins over the rim of a fixed spool without restraint. Actually, the spool of a spinning reel moves only when a fish is taking line out. It rotates on a spindle at the resistance set by the drag control. Vari­ous technical advantages accrue to the fisherman as a re­sult. First, since it is the revolution of the spool which causes backlash, the stationary spool eliminates one of the fisherman's most exasperating hazards. Also, the lack of restraint on the line makes possible a longer cast with a lighter lure for the average fisherman.

Many people attribute the popularity of spinning to its ease of casting, a marked advantage for beginners. How­ever, spinning is more than a lazy man's answer to the casting problem. While it is true that the fundamentals of spinning are easily learned, the fine points of using spin­ning tackle will be mastered only with practice.

Spinning has opened many new avenues of fun for the angler. Truly amazing records are being established by spin-men these days. For those who seek trophy fish in the light-tackle division, the field is wide open. A 150-pound marlin has been fought to a belly-up finish in run­ning seas with an 8-pound test monofilament line. One angler, after a two-hour fight, landed a 261-pound mako shark on spinning gear with 12-pound test monofilament line. Giant muskies, pike, salmon, lake trout, tarpon, and many other tackle-busters have been licked to a standstill. With spinning tackle, whether you have hooked a big fish or a small one, every ounce of the fish's strength must be exhausted before he can be brought in for the net or gaff.

Spinning wasn't designed to replace bait casting. To the contrary, spinning, as we know it, is simply a method of casting, not fishing. Although it is just another means of accomplishing the same thing as the bait-casting outfits, there is sufficient difference in the operation and action of the two to give them individual merit.

To sum up, the following are the major advantages of spinning tackle:

1. casting is more easily learned;
2. casts of greater distances are possible;
3. light lures, including flies and live bait, are easier to cast;
4. backlashing is eliminated; however, care must be taken to prevent tangles.
5. there is a more sensitive response to both small and large fish.

The major advantages of bait-casting tackle:

1. big fish are handled more easily;
2. greater accuracy in casting is possible;
3. snag-infested waters do not give as much trouble;
4. heavier lures are handled more easily;
5. results are better when trolling;
6. line is controlled more easily when playing a fish.

SPINNING TACKLE

As in the selection of any tackle, a balanced outfit is important in spinning. Therefore, let's take a look at the points you should consider when selecting spinning tackle.

REVOLVING-SPOOL REEL SPINNING REEL

spinning reels There are two major types of spinning reels available at your local tackle dealer. They are the opened-face spool and the closed-face spool. In casting, the line spirals off the end of the stationary spool. In re­trieving, the line is wound back onto the opened-face spool by a full bail, a revolving finger, or a manual roller. The line pick-up with a closed-face spinning reel is accom­plished by a pin or lug which engages the line inside the housing. When a fish pulls out the line, the spool revolves under a braking power, or drag. Ordinarily, you will re­trieve the line with your less skilled hand—a right-hander cranks with his left hand and a left-hander cranks with his right. At first, this system seems awkward, but it has the great advantage of allowing you to cast your lures and play your fish with the rod in your skilled hand. There is no shifting of the rod from hand to hand, as in bait casting.

Opened-face reels, as I have said, have three types of line pick-up: full bail, finger pick-up—both of which are automatic—and roller or manual pick-up. The full-bail mechanism is characterized by a crescent of metal, wire-like in appearance. This half-circle of wire passes over the entire spool and is fastened on both sides of the cup or rotating head. In casting, the bail is pushed out of the way by passing it over the end of the spool. At the end of the cast, when the lure hits the water, or while it is still in the air, a turn of the handle flips the bail over the spool into the retrieving position.

The finger pick-up reel features an appendage similar in appearance to the human index finger. This piece of sharp, stiff metal wire is attached to one side of the ro­tating head and is fastened in place by a hingelike fixture. Because it is easy to injure a finger on the sharp metal appendage, I don't recommend this type of spinning reel pick-up for beginners.

DRAG ADJUSTMENT NUT

FRAME (GEAR HOUSING)

CRANK

COVER PLATE (GEAR HOUSING)

DRAG ADJUSTING NUT

FRAME (FOOT)

HANDLE

NON-REVERSE VTHROWOUT LEVER

LINE ROLLER

 FRAME (FOOT)

NON-REVERSE LEVER

CONE LINE OUTLET

LINE PICK-UP MECHANISM (BAIL WIRE)

The last method of line pick-up, the roller, is manual. It consists of a hook or roller permanently attached to the side of the revolving cup. When casting, you lift the line from the pick-up hook with your finger and make your cast. At the end of the cast, or to be more exact, while the line is still going out and the lure has almost hit the water, you extend the index finger of your casting hand and interrupt the flow of the line. As line strikes your finger, you catch it. By drawing it away from the spool toward the rod handle, you place it in position to be picked up by the hook. Then you turn the reel handle, and the pick-up hook comes around and catches the line. It re­quires some practice to achieve the proper finger tech­nique, but many expert anglers like the manual method because line is more easily controlled.

As the name implies, the closed-face spinning reels have completely enclosed spools. The line, instead of running from the reel in large spirals, is conducted through a hole in the face of the cone. This hole reduces the spiraling of the line and makes it possible to use the closed-face reel on a fly rod.

One of the major advantages of the closed-face spinning reel is its operational ease for beginners. Because the outer cone prevents large billowing spirals of line (characteristic of opened-face reels), this type of reel is more adaptable to night fishing and windy conditions. Contrary to the opinion of many experts, carefully conducted tests on the water proved that the outer cone increases the distance and efficiency of the cast rather than restricting the line flow. The closed-face reel has a pick-up that is more posi­tive under all conditions than the opened-face reel, and accidental spilling of the line into uncontrolled loose spirals is impossible. In my own opinion, for most fresh-water spinning, the closed-face reel will give the ultimate in per­formance for the average angler.

A fish is played with the pick-up mechanism closed and the line engaged over the roller. In the best makes of spin­ning reels the spool will rotate in reverse under tension and give out line. There is an adjustable brake which governs the amount of this tension; and it can be set very easily while you are fighting a fish from zero—no drag—to a completely locked position, which prevents the spool from turning entirely. Since spinning is a method employing light lines, a slip-clutch drag is considered best because, when the line is being pulled beyond its limits, it will allow the spool to slip. It should have a working action that is smooth and consistent, one that will not freeze during the sustained run of a large fish.

On popular closed-face reels, the slip-clutch drag takes the form of a micrometer-type arrangement in which the outer cone is adjustable. The micrometer ring is tightened for more drag; loosened for less. Opened-face reels are generally equipped with a slip-clutch friction disc drag which is incorporated in the spool nut. By turning the nut clockwise, you increase the braking action by tightening. The reverse will decrease the drag. The drag should be set slightly under the line breaking strength for most situations.

When you are selecting a spinning reel, you should check for the following:

1. Look for sturdy construction. Make certain that corrosion-resistant finishes are used.
2. Check the spool to make sure that it has ample line capacity. A large diameter spool allows the line to loop off without kinking. Also make sure that there is proper clearance between the frame and spool. Too much clear­ance may allow the monofilament line to slip down in the space and to wind around the drive shaft. Remember that the beveled spool lip on good reels permits the line to whirl off smoothly during a cast. Be certain, too, that the spool is rigid enough so that it will not distort under monofilament pressure.
3. Turn the handle or crank to check for smooth, quiet, efficient operation. The better reels use a ball-bearing an­chor gear train and can be recognized by their easy opera­tion.
4. Check the level-winding. Reels that cross-wind line are preferred by most experts over reels with parallel-wind; the former tend to prevent throwing loops out of sequence —known as "fisherman's bird's nest" or tangles. A properly cross-wound line also prevents the fish from pulling the line down between deeper coils on the spool, which tends to snub the line or keep it from paying under the
   even drag so important for accurate control.
5. Check the anti-reverse control for accessibility be­ cause this is the mechanism that stops the handle from re­versing or flying backward when you have hooked a big one.
6. Examine the drag control for ease of reach and operation; it should be smooth and reliable. You will depend on the drag to give a fighting fish whatever amount of line is required to keep it from breaking.
7. Check for simplicity of cleaning and oiling.
8. Check to be sure that the line pick-up device operates smoothly and is ruggedly constructed of a non-corrosive material.
9. Make certain that line spools can be easily inter­changed.
10. With closed-face spools, be certain that the cone can be easily removed and is of a non-corrosive material.

spinning rods The modern spinning rod is almost al­ways made of tubular glass fiber. Like bait-casting rods, the spinning varieties can be roughly divided into light-, me­dium-, and heavy-action classes. These classes are based on the weight of the lures they cast best. For example, light-action rods will cast lures from 1/8 to 3/8 ounce; medium-action rods perform best when casting lures from 1/4 to 5/8 ounce; and heavy-action rods are used with lures from 1/2 to 1 ounce. Some heavy-duty salt-water rods cast lures up to 4 ounces, while with extra-light or ultra-light spin rods you can cast a lure weighing less than 1/16 ounce.

SPINNING ROD

For the spin-fisherman who wishes to cast lures from 8 to s ounce as well as live bait, omni-action rods are ideal. These rods feature a design known as progressive taper. This means that the butt portion is swelled to give the rod body. From the butt the section tapers to a flexible tip that permits the use of a wide range of lures from light to heavy. This sensitive tip also gives lifelike lure action— instantly relaying every movement the fish makes—while the powerful swelled butt allows for better hook-setting and fish-getting power. Because of the popularity of omni-action in spinning rods, it is now available on bait-casting rods as well. Omni-action rods will handle lures from 8 to 1 ounce as well as live bait.

Universal-action is similar to omni-action, but this spin­ning-rod design is usually capable of handling live bait and lures in the 1/4- to 5/8-ounce range only. Neither omni- nor universal-action types were designed to replace the single-action rod for the angler who wishes to specialize in one range of lures. For example, the ultra-light action rod is still best for the fisherman who wishes to use lures in the 4-ounce class and smaller.

The length of the rod in fresh-water spinning is not an important consideration since the majority of spin-rod manufacturers are turning them out only in the 6-, 61/2-, and 7-foot lengths for all three action classes as well as the omni-action type. Shorter or longer lengths are rarely re­quired. (Some ultra-light models, however, are available in lengths as short as 5 feet.)

If you fish areas where very long casts are needed, a longer rod may prove more satisfactory. It is also best for keeping your line high off the water when using surface lures among weeds and obstructions or if you plan to use your spin rod for fly fishing with a bubble (see page 113). Very light lures and live bait are handled better on the longer lengths when it comes to casting.

But if your lures will vary from light to heavy, a 62-foot rod will serve best. While most fresh-water rods are for one-handed casting, the salt-water spinning rod is usually designed for two-handed casting and ranges in length from 7 to l0.5 feet overall.

The line guides on spinning rods are unlike those found on conventional rods. Spinning guides are extra large. When you sight through a set of guides on a rod, the line-up should resemble an elongated cone. It will be seen from this that the various guides making up a set bear a definite relationship to each other as far as size and offset from the rod are concerned. The first guide has a large ring and should be set well off the rod; each succeeding one is smaller, set closer to the rod. The purpose of the large guides is to gather in the loops of the line that come off the reel during the cast, gradually reducing them in size. To prevent the line from striking the rod, the guides are ele­vated slightly off the rod.

Spinning rods have three different types of reel seats. The simplest consists of two sliding metal rings or winch bands which are forced over the foot of the reel. This sys­tem is easy to use, comfortable and light. The second is the fixed reel seat—a locking system, which is built into the rod grip so that it cannot be moved from place to place. This type assures wobble-proof reel attachment. The third type is the sliding-locking reel seat which permits you to move the reel up or down on the rod handle in balance with the weight of the lure.

When choosing a spinning rod, here are the important features to look for:

1. Make certain that the handle is comfortable. The grip of a good spinning rod is always made of cork rings cemented together so tightly that the joints between the rings are practically invisible. The cork should never have large pits or other defects.
2. Check the windings that hold down the guides since they are frequently indicative of the quality in a rod.
3. Examine the varnish coverings of the wrappings. There should have been enough varnish applied to form a smooth and shiny band.
4. Make sure that there is a sufficient number of guides. A 6.5-foot rod should have at least four guides in addition to the one at the tip. These guides must be as wear-resistant as possible. A good combination is stainless steel guides and a Carboloy top.
5. Check the action of the rod to be sure that it is quick and crisp; it should, in other words, have backbone. Never choose a slow, limp rod for spinning use. The very nature of the spinning cast—a quick double snap of the wrist— demands the ultimate in backbone.
6. Make sure that the reel seat and ferrules are made of a rust-resistant material. Also make certain that your reel fits securely in its seat.

lines Of the two types of spinning line—monofilament and braided synthetic fibers—monofilament is generally more popular.

The size of the line you purchase will depend on sev­eral factors: the weight of the lures you'll cast; the weight and stiffness of the rod; the type of fishing; and the nature of your catch.

Let's take these one by one and see how they affect the choice of the line strength. If you're using light lures run­ning from 1/16 to 1/4 ounce, for example, you can use lines testing only 2 to 4 pounds. For average weight spin lures running from 1/4 to 1/2 ounce, you can use a 4- or 6-pound test. If you plan to use heavier lures, say 1/2 to 1 ounce, you'll find a 10- or 12-pound more practical. For lures a bit heavier, a 15-pound test is best. For the beginner, however, I would recommend nothing lighter than 6-pound test even with light lures. Once you have become familiar with handling fish, you can go on to the lighter lines.

The rod action also governs the size of the line used. A long, limber rod will take up the shock of casting and playing a fish much better than a short, stiff rod. They will take light lines well. In open waters where a fish is allowed to run freely you can land big fish on light lines. But in snag-infested waters a heavier line will be required.

The size and species of the fish which you are after also governs the choice of line. If the bass in a lake or the trout in a stream are fairly small, a 4-pound test line is ample. If the fish are larger, a 6-pound test is more suitable, while for bigger fish—tarpon, Atlantic salmon, muskies, lake trout, northern pike—10- to 15-pound test lines are to be preferred.

lures One of the joys of spinning is that almost any live bait or artificial lure can be used including those de­signed for still fishing, trolling, bait casting, and fly casting. In other words, you can use the plugs, spinners, and spoons described in Chapter 2, in addition to the flies detailed in Chapter 5. Besides these artificial lures, there are small plugs—both of the surface and underwater varieties— spinners, and spoons that are designed for spinning. These lures have the same action as their big brothers.

When casting artificials, a swivel should be used to avoid line-twist. Use a keel swivel—1/16 to 1/4 ounce—specially made for spinning. When casting dry flies, and some arti­ficials, use a small plastic bubble (weighted with water or mineral oil) on the end of the spinning line for extra buoyancy and distance. See Chapter 6 for further details on the use of plastic bubbles.

SPINNING TACKLE ASSEMBLY GUIDE

TYPE OF

FISHING         REEL   ROD    LINES LURES
            (Lb. Test) (Ounces)

Crappie, brook Light     Extra-light 2,4,6            1/8 to 3/8
trout, bass,       Light
sunfish, perch,   6'6" or 7'
bluegill
Spotted,           Medium-          Light     4,6,8    1/4 to 1/2
white, small-     light      6'6" or 7'
mouth, large·
mouth bass;
brown, rainbow
trout; grayling
Large bass,       Medium            Medium            6,8,10 3/8 to 3/4
snook, steel-                       6'6" or 7"
head, walleye, cutthroat
Tarpon,            Medium-          Salt-water        10,12,15          1/2 to 1
muskie, north-  heavy   class
em pike, lake                7' to 8'6"
trout, Atlantic
salmon,
bonefish
Salt-water surf  Heavy  Salt-water        12,15,20          l to 4
and boat                       class
9' to 10'6"

SPINNING TECHNIQUES

Early in this chapter I stated that spinning was easy, that beginners can learn to cast in a short time. Neverthe­less, it is advisable to get off to a good start either by hav­ing an expert caster show you the first basic steps, or by studying written instructions carefully and then teaching yourself. This section will describe the various spin-casting procedures. Practice them carefully, just as they are de­scribed, for it is important to avoid developing bad habits which become increasingly difficult to break the longer they are used.

rigging the tackle Before casting, it is a good idea to examine the reel and to read the information that comes with it. Most spinning reels are fastened to rod grips by means of the T-shaped support on the reel. This keeps the reel spool far enough away from the rod to allow the line to uncoil without excessive slapping against it. The cross bar of the T is called the foot and the vertical bar the leg. You grasp the rod grip by having one, two, even three fingers ahead of the leg and the others behind it. (In the case of most closed-face reels, the entire right hand is placed forward of the reel.) The number of fingers will vary with the size of your hand and the style of your reel. To decide how many are most comfortable for you, grasp the reel so that the tip of your forefinger can easily be placed against the front face of the reel spool. Correct use of the forefinger against the face of the spool allows for instant control of the line, and thus it is very important in spinning. The thumb offers some leverage on top of the rod handle and increases accuracy. It is important to keep your hand as relaxed as possible. Starting with a relaxed hold, you shouldn't squeeze down on the rod grip until the very instant power is applied to the back cast. After the reel has been installed and the rod assembled, thread the line from the front face of the reel spool, or from the cone opening, through the rod line guides, and attach the lure or the practice plug.

To install line on your reel's spool it is necessary first to determine the direction of the pick-up. Most reels pick up and distribute the line clockwise; the pick-up of right-side crank models (left-hand reels) revolves in a counter-clock­wise direction. To make the line installation task easy for both spinning as well as push-button reels (see Chapter 4), some manufacturers are making their lines available in special containers or "spin-packs" rather than on regular spools. These spin-packs are factory-positioned to empty counter-clockwise and to fill reels picking up clockwise. To reverse emptying of a pack, simply remove the lock pin, grasp both wheels together, and flop in place on the card. Replace the lock pin. Now the line will come off in a clock­wise direction from the bottom of the pack wheel.

The illustration shows the filling of the reel both with a spin-pack and with a regular spool. With the former, the line is threaded from the spin-pack through the front of the outer cone and the end is tied to the spool with a slip knot. Then the reel is hand-turned a half foot or so in the direc­tion of the reel pick-up, and the outer cone is carefully re­placed.

To be sure that there is sufficient tension on the line, tighten the drag so there is no slippage, and with the spin-pack held by your foot, apply pressure with your finger on the cone hole so that the line spools on tightly.

To fill a reel from a regular spool, ask someone to hold the spool with his thumb beside the back spool lip. The spool should be positioned so that the line spirals off the facing of the spool edge as it's emptied. The illustration shows the "opposite clock direction" technique for filling a reel without twist.

After the line has been wound on the reel spool, it should not be allowed to uncoil when not in use. Many reel spools have built-in line clips to which the end of the line may be fastened. If there is none, the same results can be accom­plished by using a rubber band. Tie a knot in the rubber band to form a small loop at one end and slip the larger loop over the line. The end loop makes it easier to remove the band.

How much line should the spool carry? It is important to fill the reel to about one-eighth of an inch below the front spool flange. An overloaded spool often causes snarls, and at the very least makes the line difficult to handle. A spool that is not filled shortens the distance of the cast. Backing with a cheaper line is not advisable. Spinning lines are relatively inexpensive; therefore, it is a good idea to buy enough line to fill the reel spool properly. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations to determine the amount of line the spool should carry. When the business-end of the line becomes weak through natural wear or because of chafing, reverse the line on the spool, or splice on a fresh tip section.

Most spinning fishermen find it advisable to carry an extra reel spool filled with line. This gives a choice of two sizes—4-pound and 8-pound test, for example. The spools on most reels can be changed in a matter of seconds. The extra spool is handy in case of a broken line, and the two sizes provide a lighter line for longer casts, a stronger line for fishing near lily pads, stumps, and other obstructions, or for handling larger fish.

With most spinning reels, it's an easy job to change line spools. For closed-face reels, you must first unscrew the outer cone from the frame and remove the pick-up nut from the main shaft. Then the pick-up sub-assembly will slide forward off the main shaft. The spool assembly will be removed and it, too, will slide forward off the main shaft. To reassemble, replace the new spool first, with the large flange and ratchet to the rear. The ratchet should engage the click pawl. Slide the pick-up sub-assembly into position and, after screwing the pick-up nut on tightly, thread the line through the nose opening and replace the outer cone, making sure that the line isn't pinched.

When replacing the cone, take care to avoid cross-thread­ing. To do this, position the cone carefully against the first thread; turn the cone against the first thread until you hear it click into the thread alignment. Then simply reverse the cone to screw it on.

To change the spool on most opened-face reels, turn the drag adjustment or spool nut in a counter-clockwise direc­tion until it comes off. Then slide the line spool off the main shaft. The replacement spool, with the large flange to the rear, will slide on the main shaft. Make sure that the ratchet at the back of the spool engages the click pawl. Then the spool nut can be replaced and the drag reset.

The way the lure is tied to the line is, of course, a major concern in spinning. (Refer to the illustration which ap­pears in Chapter 2 for the proper knots to use for this task.)

Set the drag by adjusting the spool nut or micrometer ring to just under the breaking strength of the line. While there are several methods of adjusting the drag, the easiest way for beginners is to adjust the nut or ring by hooking your lure on some object, and with the reel in a retrieve po­sition, to step backward with the rod under stress so that you can feel the amount of drag being exerted. If the line merely pulls taut and the clutch doesn't slip, or if it is re­leased with difficulty, lessen the drag a bit. When it rolls off smoothly under almost maximum pressure without ap­parent strain on the line, the drag is set properly for most types of fishing. Each time you change line spools, remem­ber to reset your drag to its proper tension. There are times when the amount of drag must be changed. That is why point number 6, on page 42, is so important when select­ing a reel.

overhead cast Overhead or overhand casting, generally the standard method, permits the greatest accuracy with the greatest distance. Grasp the rod loosely—don't strangle it. Set the anti-reverse lever in the off position; leave 6 to 12 inches of line dangling from the tip to the lure; pick up the line with your index finger; and open or release the bail or pick-up device. (In the case of an enclosed spinning reel which has no bail, hold the line against the grip with your index finger and back up the crank until it stops. This will disengage the pick-up device and leave the line free for casting.) Don't hold the line top tightly against the rod handle. It should be handled in much the same way as you would the trigger on a rifle; in other words, rather gently.

OVERHEAD CAST WITH OPENED-FACE SPINNING REEL

For greatest accuracy, begin the cast with your rod sighted on your target and at about a 2 or 2:30 o'clock po­sition, holding the line relaxed in the index finger. Now lift the rod with a quick upward sweep of your forearm, cock­ing your wrist back as you do so until the rod reaches the 12 o'clock position in an easy, though accelerated, move­ment. When you stop your power lift as the rod reaches the vertical position, the momentum of the back cast will bend the rod backward. As the rod reaches its maximum flex, immediately drive it forward, using wrist motion only, keeping the elbow of your casting arm close to your side. As the rod reaches the 2 o'clock position on the forward cast, release the line by straightening out your index finger; follow through by lowering your rod to a 3 o'clock position as the lure flies out. You will note that one of the major differences between spinning and bait casting is the line release point. The spinning rod, being longer and more flexible, must be brought farther forward before releasing the lure; otherwise it will shoot high into the air above you. If you have made too strong a cast, you can stop the line in flight in one of the following ways:

1. Place the forefinger of your casting hand on the edge of the spool, and immediately turn the reel handle to close the automatic finger or bail for retrieving.
2. Catch the spinning line on your forefinger prepara­tory to placing it on the pick-up roller for subsequent re­trieve.
3. If you are using a closed-face spinning reel, pinch up the line against the grip.

To drop your lure or bait on the water with a minimum of noise and splash, touch your forefinger across the spool or pinch the line as described above. This also keeps the line under control and tight. To insure a soft cast, I always pull back on the rod just before the lure strikes the water. The pull should be gentle, serving only to tighten up on the line. This takes the momentum out of the cast, and allows the lure to land on the water with only a ripple.

Let the lure sink to the desired depth, then start reeling in by turning the crank with the left hand. Do not change hands as you would in bait casting. Except for reels with manual pick-up, the pick-up device on either the opened- or the closed-face reels will engage itself automati­cally when the handle is turned forward. If you should be using a reel with a manual pick-up attachment, drop your right index finger against the edge of the spool. Pick up the line, pulling it behind the path of the manual pick-up roller. Then turn the handle forward, and the roller will pick up the line.

As I have said, most spinning reels have an anti-reverse arrangement which saves plenty of barked knuckles. When a fish strikes, you quickly flip the control lever into the on position with your left thumb, at the same time holding firmly to the reel handle. Once the anti-reverse is on, the handle need not be held except when you are reeling in the line. No matter what the antics of the fish, the handle won't turn backward, and the drag can be used with full effective­ness.

At this point I would like to say something about line-twist. A small amount of it is of little or no consequence and can hardly be avoided. It's a normal hazard, inherent in spinning tackle. You can minimize this line trouble by:

1. Using a small swivel at the lure tie-on point.
2. Avoiding "horsing-in" or jerking a fish, or cranking against the run of a fish. (In addition to twisting the line, such action will cause monofilament, which is spooled under great tension, to come in "stretched." It might sink into the previously spooled line, causing a jam when you cast. If the tension is great enough, it may even crack the reel spool. The pump and reeling technique described in Chapter 7
   will bring the line in "relaxed," so that it lies on the spool gently and peels off in orderly spirals without kinking or twisting.)
3. Stripping off the reel the line that has been used and trolling it behind the boat for straightening. (To remove line-twist and to spool the line under proper tension, pay out all the line. Then reel it in again, allowing it to slide through the forefinger and thumb of your right hand to remove the twist and to provide even tension.)

side cast Point the rod toward the target as before. Keep your upper arm close to your body, as you did in the over­head cast, using the wrist and forearm exclusively. Bring the rod to the side and downward. Now, using the bend put in the rod by this side motion, snap the rod forward and slightly upward, releasing the lure the instant the rod points at about a 45-degree angle over the target. After the lure drops to the water, retrieve it as before.

Although not as accurate as the overhead, you will find the side cast ideal on windy days or when casting under trees and bushes along the shore.

bow-and-arrow cast The bow-and-arrow enables you to make a fairly long and accurate cast even when you are standing in the middle of overhanging bushes. In this case, the rod does all the work. Let the lure dangle about two feet from the rod tip; then grasp the lure between the thumb and forefinger of your free hand, and bend the rod by drawing back the lure. Keep the line from unwinding by holding the line against the rod handle with the fore­finger of your casting hand. With the rod aimed on your target, release the lure and line; the power of the rod flex will shoot the lure out and away. Be careful, of course, that you do not set the lure's hooks in your finger.

lariat cast Another cast also used in heavy brush is the lariat or circle cast. With the rod pointing slightly downward and the lure hanging from the rod tip about a foot or so, twirl the lure around in a circle in front of you as you would a sling. As the lure gains speed, release the line and the lure will shoot out to one side. By reversing the spin, you can cast the lure in the other direction.

There are other casts, but the ones above will take care of most fishing situations. Remember that in the beginning it pays to try for accuracy, not distance. Perfect the one and the other will come naturally as your skill increases.

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